Few canapes deliver as much pleasure for as little effort as a warm new potato topped with cool creme fraiche and a glistening pearl of caviar. The potato stands in for the blini, its earthy sweetness and soft-crisp skin the ideal base for the tang of the cream and the salt-and-sea burst of the caviar. It is the kind of thing that looks like it came from a caterer and takes fifteen minutes to put together.
This is a recipe of proportion rather than technique. The potatoes must be small enough to eat in one or two bites, warm but not hot, and the caviar must be added last so it keeps its shine. Everything else is assembly.
Why the caviar matters
Against the neutral, comforting potato and the gentle sourness of the creme fraiche, the caviar is the whole event: the salt, the pop, the luxury. A good Oscietra or Siberian gives clean, firm pearls that sparkle on top of the white cream, while salmon caviar, with its larger bright orange beads, makes a spectacular and more affordable showing for a party. Because the caviar sits on cooling cream rather than hot potato, its flavour and texture stay perfect. As always, spoon it on with something other than metal.
Ingredients
- 18 small new potatoes, evenly sized, such as Charlotte or Jersey Royal
- 150g creme fraiche
- 50g caviar, or to taste
- 2 tablespoons snipped chives
- Olive oil, salt and black pepper
Equipment
- A saucepan or a small roasting tray
- A melon baller or teaspoon, optional
- A non-metallic spoon for the caviar
Method
- Cook the potatoes. Either boil the new potatoes in well-salted water until just tender, about 12 to 15 minutes, or toss them in oil and salt and roast at 200C until tender and lightly crisp. Let them cool until just warm.
- Make a well. Halve each potato if needed so it sits flat, and press a small hollow into the top with a teaspoon or the handle of a spoon to hold the topping.
- Add the cream. Season the creme fraiche with a little pepper and spoon or pipe a small amount into each hollow.
- Crown and serve. Top each with a pearl of caviar, added last with a non-metallic spoon, and finish with chives. Arrange on a platter and serve while the potatoes are still gently warm.
Chef's notes and common mistakes
- Warm, not hot. A hot potato will melt the cream and dull the caviar. Let them cool to just-warm before topping.
- Even sizes. Choose potatoes of a similar small size so every canape is one or two neat bites.
- Caviar last, with a non-metal spoon. Add it at the final moment so it stays glossy and does not weep into the cream.
- Do not over-season. Salt the potato water, but go easy elsewhere; the caviar carries the salt.
Variations
Swap creme fraiche for sour cream, or fold a little lemon zest and dill through it for a fresher note. A sliver of smoked salmon under the cream turns each bite into a more substantial mouthful. For a warm version, use halved roasted potatoes with crisp skins. A mixture of black caviar on some and salmon caviar on others makes a striking two-tone platter for a party.
Make ahead and storage
The potatoes can be cooked several hours ahead and kept at room temperature, and the hollows pressed in advance. Assemble with the cream up to an hour before serving, but add the caviar only at the last minute so it stays bright and firm. Leftover cooked potatoes keep in the fridge for a couple of days but are best eaten fresh in this dish.
Serving and pairing
These are made for a drinks party and a glass of something cold and sparkling: Champagne above all, or a good dry English sparkling wine, whose acidity is perfect against the cream and caviar. Serve them as the centrepiece of a canape selection or as a stylish start to a dinner. Count on two or three per person and expect them to disappear first.
